Dismiss, Lily58 Low Profile Case Acrylic/Aluminum/FR4, Choc PBT/PC Keycaps for Low Profile Choc Switch, Kailh Choc Low Profile 1U Blank Keycaps (ABS), Gateron Yellow Milky Top Switches 5 Pin (KS-3X47), Gateron Milky Yellow Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Gateron Milky Red Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Also known as spacers, Cable for 3.5 mm audio, also called AUX cable (4-pole cable recommended), 56 1u keys, 2 1.5u keys for the thumb keys. Dont force it to enter, otherwise you risk to end up with a broken socket/PCB pad like on the photo below. 4x12 pin header (and optionally socket) for Pro Micros. Lily 58 pro Mechanical Keyboard | 1.5 Year Update I've been using my Lily 58 Pro for about a year and a half and it looks a bit different these days so I thought I would give an updated video on. Was this long process worth it? create a sandwich with the PCB-Plate-Switches. Moving the iron back and forth from the pin can help to flow the solder under the LED. You signed in with another tab or window. I wouldn't mind adding some LED backlighting to this The image shows a soldered MX socket; please install Choc socket on the lower side. Starting with the diodes. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. After confirming that there are no bends in the switch pins, you can attach it firmly by starting from the middle row and working outward. The RGB version has dedicated build guide. Get to know the jargon used in the community, and some hidden gotchas like how deep the mechanical keyboard rabbit hole really goes! Its not a polished product. Make sure you know which way around your leds are, different brands have different pin 1 positions. This behavior can be switched programmatically without any problem. All those switches are connected to an electric board and on that board you put the chip that controls everything. The sockets are mounted on the back side, the same side as the diodes. Note the outlined sets of holes in PCB, and insert the ProMicro into the outlined holes. This is how the backside (bottom) should look at this stage. Since recognition of keyboard is recognized as JIS keyboard on OS, another symbol will be input when inputting with Lily 58 (treated as US keyboard). How to Make a Corne Split Keyboard by Great intro into soldering in general. Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. Both sides of the keyboard ready. At this point it should function as a keyboard. After removing the key switch, make sure that the pins aren't bent, and then push it in again and install it. Prepare the Pro Micro. Following the steps in this guide, you will: Create a new repository in GitHub that will contain your user config. One or more rows/columns of key switches do not respond, Q. Work out what leds you wish to have, I have endeavoured to provide plenty of flexibility, and all led configurations are available using the headers available. Completed half of the keyboard waiting for keycaps. Lily58 Pro Documentation. Cherry MX Switch Comparison by KeyMouse. Bridge 4 jumpers on the TOP SIDE of the PCB by soldering them 2 by 2 vertically on both PCBs, if you plan to use OLED Screens. Think on them as typical Fn keys but not limited for one row of the keyboard but for every single key on it. Same as the diodes, on the PCB tin one socket pad first. the TRRS cable to connect the two halves while the microcontroller is also plugged in and powered. At the moment, the build guide isn't ready yet. Pcbs and cases are sold in . Insert the controller into the Pins and solder it with its components faced down. In the case of badly attached diode: Lily58 KB License. Check everything before soldering. over the years Ive learned to shift from keyboard+mouse interaction to almost After that, holding gently the socket down with the tweezers solder the corresponding side. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Im really proud of achieving this point. I didn't want to spend that much money only to then find myself not being able to adjust to the keyboard and the typing experience. Solder the TRRS in the marked contour on PCB and Reset tactile switch on the top side of the PCB. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. Snap first switches into corners of the plate. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Use as low a temperature as you can manage, place the board flat on a table, and drop an led in. I was not able to get 7mm, but 6mm worked well for me with MX switches. The Sofle RGB is a copy of the Sofle V2 with the addition of up to 36 RGB leds per side. (For custom keymaps, it's recommended to build the full environment described above). I would say start with the ZMK documentation . Keep in mind height of your Pro Micro which may be different based on if/which sockets you have used for Pro Micro. The script will: Prompt you for which board (e.g. We suggest to revisit the main build guide for general process and tips about technique. This self-made keyboard use the QMK firmware, described above. In 2 sets come 24 + 24 Pins enough for 2 controllers, Optional, but its always fun to put a bongo cat for example later on the screen, to check the wpm or show current layer etc, if the controller will be hotswap, this makes total sense to have, or Micro USB cable (depending on the chosen controller). Insert into holes. I recommend doing one LED and testing it before continuing. ** Indicator + drop lighting + per key lighting **. Related to the above point, the pin holes for the microcontroller are outlined with a white square box, but there is also a set of holes that are offset for the reverse side. I stuck very close to the Lily58 build guide I linked above. A build log / reference post covering my first stab at a hardware project: building a split ergonomic keyboard running the QMK firmware. I've owned and used a Ducky (2012 model) mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches for several years now, but have rarely used it for prolonged typing sessions. However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. Refer to Soldering Kailh hot swap sockets if you need further guidance. It is a modified version of the Lily58 Pro pcb from kata0510 Thank you for your hard work. Soldering Crash Course: Basic Techniques, Tips and Advice! 1 contributor. Install the oled so it sits over the pro micro, Add rotary encoders last, they are big, and make soldering harder. Keep in mind that this hobby is not cheap . Luckily if you are interested in a custom keyboard but youre a little afraid of doing it there is a second-hand market in Reddit that has a lot of options on fully built keebs. The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. Lily58 Build Service (required) Lily58 Kit (required) 2x Controllers (required) Black PCBs. Screw in the standoffs on the top side of the PCB for the OLED Cover first. FREE Shipping Worldwide on all custom cables. Hope you like them! 2 x 25 Pack Mill-Max Machined Pins Build Instructions Lily58 Pro Build Guide This keyboard is designed originally by Naoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. Dont connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when the keyboard is powered. To enable drop lighting, short pins 2-3 of J4(Light select), to enable only per key lighting short pins 1-2 of J4. by wermy. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. Note: Choc switches do not work with acrylic case. Please refer to the official QMK documentation for the key codes and programming specifics. There are no RGB LEDs on the board. Make sure halves are not connected together with TRRS cable. Build yourself your own split mechanical keyboard and protect your wrists! One rotary encoder support on each side (optional) Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side) Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side) You should see all the contacts in sockets. Button and TRRS sockets belong to the top. I suggest to put an insulating tape on the Pro Micro to prevent any shorts with the OLED Display. Most of the photos are for v1 and the differences are explained in the text as needed. Build-Guide for the Lily58L Split-Keyboard pcb. It may short out. Execute the following in the qmk_firmware directory to write the default Lily58 keymap. The awesome QMK Configurator online tool let's you pick a keyboard, WYSIWYG yourself a keymap, and even get a compiled firmware download that you can then just flash onto your device! Peel off the masking tape used to identify the front and back of the board. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 4mm for Choc and 7mm for MX. Custom USB Cables and Ergonomical Keyboards. Follow. Suggested approach is to build the firmware yourself. The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. A symbol different from the symbol input by "@" or "[" etc. But this build guide is the main source of important details for your build - like Pro-Micro orientation, component placement etc. Hotswap Sockets: Choc low profile, MX. And corresponding sockets (if used) on the front side of the board. But if you really need underglow it is be possible to connect an RGB LED strip since there are 3 pads (VCC, GND and data) on the board. ** Indicator + per key lighting ** Clone/download the QMK firmware and execute the following in the qmk_firmware directory to write the default Lily58L keymap. Solder the OLED screen hotswap sockets on the top side of the PCB. keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pcbs/71/lily58l-split-keyboard-pcb?utm_campaign=about&utm_source=github&utm_medium=social, keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pcbs/71/lily58l-split-keyboard-pcb?utm_campaign=About&utm_source=Github&utm_medium=Social, 2 solid panels, 2 with holes for switches. One rotary encoder support on each side (optional), Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side), Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side), Per switch RGB LED with SK6812 Mini-E led (with legs, easy to solder), Change underglow footprint to WS2812 (5050) (easier to solder), Add footprint for an optional rotary encoder. Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners by Blacksimon. It's easy for the components to fly out when peeling back the tape, so open it slowly and carefully. Now it is already possible to connect the ProMicro and OLED display to the board, flash the firmware and check if all keys work using a piece of wire or tweezers. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. 5 more replies. On the front side of the board, apply enough solder to bridge the four jumper terminals in the ProMicro section. 10 x 7mm Brass Standoffs (MX Normal Profile) OR 5mm Brass Standoffs (Choc Low Profile), 58 x Kailh Hotswap Sockets (MX Normal Profile) OR Choc Low Profile Sockets (Choc Low Profile), 2 x Pro Micro Controllers (Comes with Headers to Direct Attach), 2 x 40 Pin Machined Breakable Female Header (Enable Controller Hot Swap). They are easy to break. On the PCB tin one diode pad first. Use a fairly low temperature (240c) and lots of flux. Watch the markings on the silkscreen which show the correct orientation. If you know what you want, use a solder bridge to enable the leds required. A much better deal than buying pre-made, plus I now have equipment to experiment with and take on other projects. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. Their height depends on which switches you use. I've estimated it's battery life somewhere between 1-2 months. Also this build guide no longer applies to their version. Double combo . Q. Third, out there there are prebuilt keyboards or parts to build your own. That brings the total cost to ~$252 USD! DROP + INVYR HOLY PANDA MECHANICAL SWITCHES, https://github.com/kata0510/Lily58/blob/master/Pro/Doc/buildguide_en.md, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr3nYR15wxU, https://dp12.github.io/posts/adventures-with-the-lily58-part-1/. The interesting part will come in later post that Ill write in which I will show some of the problems that Ive faced and solutions that Ive applied. The diodes are supplied in a plastic tape reel. Ive been using some keeb or another for more than 8 years, and I continuously Solder the 2x 12 Pin Headers provided with your controller on the top side of the PCB in the marked rectangle section. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. throughhole diodes are not recommended due to a footprint error, Choc: 4 mm, MX: 7 mm. Build Guide This is the build guide for Corne Cherry v3. Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream Nicell 786 subscribers Subscribe 619 42K views 2 years ago A full split Lily58 Pro kit build with nice!nanos running the. TRS should work 1 if you stick with Serial. A couple of additional callouts, though: There are several community contributed keymaps within the Lily58/keymaps folder in the QMK repo, but I found that there really isn't any one opinionated set of keymaps that folks typically stick to. This is because the TRRS cable does carry power in addition to data, so as a precaution avoid messing around with them while live. This unfortunately suggests soldering the micro on first, despite it making the back side harder to solder. I have added a single LED to the top surface to act as a layer indicator, this is enabled by bridging 2-3 on J6(indicator bypass). Feel free to get creative and experiment with keymaps that match your preferences; consider changing to the JIS layout or adding a key to switch between English and Kana, for example. If you're curious, you can check out my keymap by loading in my lily58_keymap.json file that I've hosted as a Gist into the tool. 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