It offers its own private entrance and parking area, long balcony looking out over the mountains and hills of southern Abruzzo our backyard. But undaunted, we entered this evocative and challenging valley. There is a park kiosk here where we were able to get our cammino passport stamped as well as obtain tickets for a self guided tour. Compliments to Francesco Consoli and Elio Roma (and all those involved with the trail work)! Italy is beloved by expats, global nomads and retirees. Expat Story #3. The next step was a bit precarious and sensitive. WebThis program aims to incentivise both foreign and Italian pensioners to take up residency in the south of Italy, and in Calabria, Sicily and Sardinia, in particular, by offering them a 10-year tax holiday on their retirement income for spending a minimum of 6 months per year in their Italian home. Both days had perfect weather, far-reaching views to the Majella and Adriatic, and stirring remains of civilizations and inhabitants long gone. Well keep you posted of our next adventure here. I may have not been active in search and rescue for the past 4- 1/2 years living here in Italy, but with Romeo by my side, we never truly left that life. Expat Story #3. I wouldnt say I got a balanced workout (even though I did try with some hand weights) but cycling definitely improved my lower body muscle strength with the added benefit of a good cardio push. We arrived at Caramanico Terme, found Hotel Viola to check-in to our rooms, walked around a bit and had dinner back at the hotel. And with these size packs and the expected terrain, its always a smart idea to have hiking sticks. During this summer, I continued my studies with Italy Made Easy Academy online lessons. These majestic animals were bred for this work and they truly looked in their element, well fed and handled all by voice commands. The list was varied with such lasting experiences they enjoyed as well as for us, meeting and hosting them. We knew these 6 days would be a challenge, but oh so rewarding. Literally we were building it with a few helpers, and it was a large home on a mountainside. So to reconnect and add joy to my life, Im building a tribe of English and Italian speaking friends. Well, we lucked out with dry weather, but it was a lot hotter than expected. LookI got my view . It was amazing. Others went hiking, headed to the beach for the day, went house hunting, and others came to work in the area. Weve compiled a list of the 12 best places to live in Italy based upon expats recommendations. Views to Blockhaus, the Adriatic Sea, the Gran Sasso filled this day. What can I say we couldnt resist the view, great condition of this more modern house (built in mid70s), the price (which I had followed for three years as it slowly came into our budget), good size yard, private parking area, etc. Not to be missed. One more river crossing before the hermitage and some slippery rocks took Alex down into the water. You can also find my story at this link in both Italian and English. There is so much more work I want to do on my family tree, but mostly I just want to enjoy being a part of my Italian family. We are ready for tomorrow, Castellana Grotte Alberobello, 18+km/11+ miles. A day for another well-known and stunningly beautiful hermitage Eremo San Spirito A Maiella. We were excited! When I finally reached him by phone, he was very hesitant for me to meet his grandfather Michele De Felice, my third cousin who is in his late 80s. All the food we ate during this week of cammino was excellent. And truth be told, much of my tribe are animal or outdoor lovers, active and love to hike or walk. To be able to experience all these many hermitages within a 6 day span has truly been mind boggling. Also, I truly hate hiking with a mask on, so hiking with only John was the answer. Buck and I, after two years (this is about normal) became an operational team for the Virginia Department of Emergency Management, as eventually my second and fourth dogs, Luce & Romeo. We had an evening walk around town and then enjoyed a delicious meal before a very sound nights sleep. But at our age retirementwe just didnt need the hassle. The Italian language had not emerged nationally yet and the inhabitants of these lofty towns developed their own, as still heard today in the dialects of each individual town. Coming soon Home | Terms | Contact | RSS, American Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Alexa, American Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Sophie, Canadian Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Jasmine, British Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Sue, Australian Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Cherise Vecchio, Best expat retirement destinations on the planet, American Expat Living in Spain - Interview with Jiab & Jim, German Expat Living in Jordan - Interview with Bastian, American Expat Living in Germany - Interview with Cherie, Filipino Expat Living in United Arab Emirates - Interview with JM Kayne. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Who would have thought that within two weeks of listing, we would have an offer, and by early June a signed contract. These events are for the family and we get that now. Also the brochure must have been written for a younger age group in regards to difficulties. Thankfully, with our few stumbles along the routes and a water slip, we all were able to smile and keep hiking. We both have fully embraced our lives here. It all started with a trip to the medieval village of Scanno in the mountains of Abruzzo. The image below is one page of 4 of my spreadsheet. There are definitely parts that I would love to revisit and slow down the pace. The gauge is that your pack, with all your stuff apart from food and water, should be about 10% of your body weight. But the deal was too good to pass up, the views outstanding and the house was move-in ready. If you follow any Facebook Abruzzo nature sites, this is the famous hermitage where a belly crawl along a narrow ledge is required to enter the hermitage. We were ready and Abruzzo Rural Property handled the rest. We quickly exited the lovely city of Locorotondo to the countryside into a wooded trail. Lunch plus our granola & powerbars, electrolyte gels kept us going until we reached a local bar at the end of each day. Then a shimmy back out to the staircase and great accomplishment goes to her! As we are very avid promoters of this area, we then decided to offer the apartment on Airbnb & Booking.com. I was approached by Alessio Massari (mountain guide, environmentalist and good friend) to write a testimonial telling my story of rediscovering my Italian roots, from New York to Roccaspinalveti via San Salvo. It began with the woods and dogs, both which I were very comfortable with. Alex did an amazing job skimming along the narrow trail on her belly and entering the small hermitage. After graduating from college and getting her TEFL certification, she moved abroad to teach English and learn Italian. This was early May and we figured that maybe by mid July or so we would have some interest with serious buyers arriving in Abruzzo for the summer months. Good thought but it didnt look like a lot of takers from the get-go. This motto will be my mantra when I hit the tougher sections, slow myself down, take smaller strides and just enjoy being out in the mountains with John and Alex. John and I decided to stroll past my cousin Micheles house in the historic district of San Salvo. And I am certain we will also return to hike some of the mountain trails. The house has been a restoration project that reflects the artistic talents and expertise of Giacomo Ottaviano (owner/contractor), but upmost the work is from his heart. In Serramonacesca, we piled into Alexs car and headed the hour back to Sulmona. I hope you enjoyed this posting and please let me know if you have any questions about how and why we do what we do here. Were using the lower-level kitchenette as our working kitchen as John assembles the cabinets for the main kitchen and we await gas hookup. Tufillo is a lovely small village inhabited by such big hearted people with a characteristic historic center dating back to the 13th century. Its exact age of the structure is unknown, due to missing records, but an estimate puts it at 250-300 years old. Thankfully just wet boots and socks, no major bumps and we climbed a short steep path to the remnants of the hermitage San Onofrio AllOrfento. I wanted you, my reader, to have glimpse into this unforgettable week, so you could also feel a part of this, and maybe someday step out on these trails. WebNationality: American Welcome to Sulmona For expats living in Abruzzo, there is no better resource than this blog, which provides information about what to get up to in the area. As we found out, most of the hermitages are only open on the weekends, especially so early in the cammino season, so we enjoyed the expansive views, a short respite, before we continued back down and onward to Pacentro. Even a bit nervous. It encompasses all of this, and more. Abruzzo is in the center of Italy, with its western border a mere 31 miles from Rome. Long considered part of southern Italy politically and culturally, it enjoys a central location that is bordered by the Adriatic Sea on the east, Le Marche on the north, Lazio on the west, and Molise to the south. John Wiankowski. We added a few more visits to other regions over the past years, but we always made time to visit a small village for a few days in Abruzzo. You may find that local families are very tight and there may be some exclusion to you being invited to family events, unless you are directly related or have been close friends for years. So truly our world, even right now, isnt that small, but rather large and grand. Both John and I worked in the hospitality industry when we lived in the United States. Now that chapter is finished and we have turned the page, as sad as it may seem to be at this very moment. To give the house more flow from one room to the next, we decided to over-tile the kitchen, entrance hall all the way into the bathroom. The Parco Nazionale della Majella office is situated inside the Abbey, where we received our first stamps, pin and patch, etc. One final hike to share with you today and I thank you for your indulgence. This would be one of my favorite days as the views are long and wide and very green this time of year. What next ensued was serendipitous and I honestly believe I was pointed in the right direction at the right time. Alex has an Osprey Eja 38L, John a Quechua Forclaz 40 Air+ and I have an Osprey Tempest 40L. Ill bring many of my potted plants and flowers and I have lots of trails, fields and woods to hike in just a step away from the house. But truly the strongest and incomparable bond I had was with each of my amazing dogs. I can remember fondly all the daylong meals the entire family would have, whether in New Jersey, where I was born and raised, or in Brooklyn, NY. The town boasts plenty of amenities; bakery, bar, pharmacy, post office, museum, grocery store, goat cheese maker, library, churches, doctors office, weekly market and travelling vendors. So, to make this move to an urban setting (yes, even if its in a stunning medieval village) and not to feel closed-in, just tells me that this is what was meant to be for us at this time in our lives. 3. Many of the callouts for searches are at night, as usually the family looks for their missing person during the day, then when unable to locate their family member, they call the local sheriffs office by the evening. Along the way, not very far from San Spirito, a man was working with his 6 horses and mules to bring firewood out of the forest. Our range of movement went from the whole of Italy and beyond down to just our town. Why? Italy has always been welcoming to foreigners who wish to buy property in their They are water resistant and by giving categories to each bag, I can quickly remove what I need with out having to search and repack. So how did we find this gem of a house? The good news, after many months, is that we can now move throughout our region as well as Italy and beyond. A true romantic, she is an avid cook and wine British Expat Living in Italy - Interview with Sue. Us old folks are happy that we didnt quit but that we enjoyed this wonderful day. -storage room for wine and stall area for animal such as donkey.) How I miss those times, as we all grew older, moved further apart, and our grandfathers and grandmothers passed away. Its important, when walking a cammino with your weeks worth of clothes, etc. This stone house belonged to his grandmother and he took ownership 10+ years ago. There are two hermitages to see today along our route: San Michele Di Lettomanoppello & San Onofrio Di Serramonacesca. I am thankful that I was able to serve the community of Virginia and very thankful for the gift of my four great dogs. Sue moved to Le Marche in Italy from London in the UK in May 2013 after falling in love with the country during a holiday. Our dogs will always be a part of us. We had a recent meal together, something we had not been able to do for over a 1 1/2 years! Bars and restaurants are closed, only allowing takeout (or takeaway as it is called here). This time it was for Cantina di Biffi Vineria con Cucina just a short walk from our rooms. You could not tell that I am Italian by heritage with such a name, except possibly for the Rosalie. The B&B Belvedere was cool and tranquil and our meal excellent. Our go-to source for tile at a reasonable price delivered was Edilizia Del Gesso srl in nearby Gissi, a great family-run builders supply company. Finally we got a break with cooler Fall temperatures arriving. During this time with NCSO, with Mike Hull, a world renowned Man Tracker and Massie Saunders, local search manager, we formed the local search group, F.I.R.S.T., Fast Initial Response Search Team. The setting is impressive, set against a rock cliff, this extensive hermitage is a work of art in itself. I missed all the amazing stories Grandpa Carlo had to share, and now it is too late, sadly to say. Four great dogs my friends, my confidants, my fuzzy children.. unforgettable. The hike was filled with long views, stunning fall colors, discoveries of ancient farmsteads and homes and the development of the Valle del Treste trail network. But first the signs took us through the State Agricultural Technical Institute and its large complex, which included historic gardens and the Masseria (farmhouse) Ferragnano. Both of us have OC tendencies so offering a sparkling clean accommodation with numerous amenities was just something we fell into naturally. I have a lot of researching to do on the Giordano family and hope to start on that soon. I encourage anyone seeking their Italian relatives to gather all information needed and not give up. At some point during those years, I found out that I could apply for my Italian citizenship. However the bus service across the mountain is very good and I've only ever heard of it once being delayed due to snow. On a personal note, we are loving this cammino. A chance to cool off, marvel in the construction, share in its beauty with other hikers and families before we started our climb out of the canyon. Again, a lot of work with not much return when you consider that I was doing all the laundry. Moving not an easy process as many of you have experienced. Want your own expat blog here at ExpatBlogs? Patient, understanding, meticulous artist who works his free weekends to finish this house for us, while working very hard at his full-time contractor job. I wish I had room in this post to go into all the spiritual nuances of the hermitages, but I leave that to the professionals on the many sites that can be found on the internet! Im not good with ledges edges of cliffs with too many feet between me and the ground below. Many settle in larger cities such as Florence. We were in our municipality and felt like we were on another adventure, locating trails that all the local hunters already know about. And just before this new lockdown came into force, I got in two separate hikes, one with girlfriends and the other with John, to Monte Pallano with its daunting Megalithic Wall and breathtaking views of the Majella. Huge complements to everyone involved with this cammino, working diligently to make this an outstanding experience! Roccaspinalveti now has a couple more rentals and B&Bs and we are happy to see this trend in our town. The plan came together this past winter, always being the optimist that COVID restrictions would be lifted. And it is such a day to experience. Day 6 has come upon us. And just because you speak the same language, you may find that you dont share similar interests and it is hard to include them in your tribe. Not that they asked to see this, but I just felt it was a reassuring measure for them to see the actual family connection. They so love to work when their rewards are food, toys and praise Training with them was always the best part of SAR for me, and their devotion to me and their work unfathomable. WebItaly is beloved by expats, global nomads and retirees. It is everchanging depending on the weather and lighting and I just cant get enough. The climb moderated and we came to the side trail that would take us down to the hermitage San Giovanni allOrfento. I think if we had done this fulltime while we were younger, it may not have been so taxing. After visiting a number of different villages, we kept coming back to Tufillo, a small medieval village with so much character and the nicest folks! As this cammino was a group and John and I are more comfortable on vacations with just the two of us, we decided that I would organize a cammino and invite our close friend Alex. After lunch we headed down from the pass in the direction of Caramanico Terme (a famous town here in Abruzzo for their thermal baths). We have found a house but not just any house. And Giacomos family.. a triple blessing. They said they did and that they were his daughters! We wanted the size to be about 1/2 of what we had in Rocca, move-in ready, a small garden would be nice, but most of all we wanted a view. Four years ago, when we were looking for a house to buy in Abruzzo, our intention was to downsize from our chalet-style home in Virginia and find a country house primarily for just the two of us with one or two guest rooms. We had space to accommodate 6 guests, but changed the setup to only allow up to 4 guests the following season. Once John completed the hall & kitchen tiling project, he was ready to renovate our master bathroom. The views are always captivating and beautiful, the food amazing, the people of the villages friendly and helpful, and every day we are so thankful to be here. Never to be forgotten. Interestingly, an astounding 80% of the people who live here own their home. You can catch up on our preparation to our new place and its location from two of my most recent postings; A Change ofPlace and A Giftfinding Tufilloand Giacomo. Martina Franca Crispiano, 30+ km/19 mi. Its been a tough time for everyone, especially when large gatherings amongst family and friends are on hold now. Just a thought. Also, we can happily say we can now meet again with my entire family of cousins, living 40 minutes from us. Please humor me as I was in search and rescue in the USA for over 25 year. John opted to watch our packs, as he and I both started this cammino with compromised knees due to recent injuries. And we are so very glad we stopped along the trail for our taster lunches on Tappa 1 & 3: Trulli all controro & Larco Antico. Today we would have our greatest elevation gain, approximately 3400 ft. We did our best to get an early start to have the toughest part of the climb done during the cooler morning hours. Im experimenting with summer weight wool tops, which do not retain odor as other fabrics. Just many hours on call and lots of driving ahead. Our guests couldnt have been kinder with their reviews! Our two favorites were Ristorante Antiche Mura in Polignano and Gaonas in Martina Franca. You can snag a home there for between 35,000 to 90,000. Expat Forum For People Moving Overseas And Living Abroad A forum community dedicated to expatriates and enthusiasts. Then there were the solid bonds built between me and the people of SAR, whether in my group or throughout the state. They will stop by from time to time to check in on you and there is always a friendly wave or honk if they pass you along the street or in town. Training with the group, traveling long distance, the time commitment and doing statewide searches had to be put on hold for about 5 years. A clan is agroupofpeopleofcommondescent;family. The drop-off gave me enough pause to make my palms sweat, but I hung my hiking poles onto my pack and just hand over hand made my way. I didnt do a lot of mountain hiking until I was an adult, but the hook had been set. We previously had visited Sulmona a few years back, but never took the time required to truly appreciate this city. Boots (Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GORE-TEX) are now well broken in and they are a dream. Here are some comparisons from when we first saw the house back in November of 2021 and our progress up until today. But again, 20 years ago I may have viewed these as less of a challenge. We stopped at the pass for our lunch and sat back to enjoy the majesty of the mountains. I most likely will never become fluent at my age, but will be able to contribute to the conversation. What ensued was me obtaining my dual citizenship and then the decision was made to retire in Italy. Any thoughts of writing a post for this blog were clouded by the mind-fogging weather. Vasto Italy. No going back for me. John is a willing partner, but he takes a more relaxed view. I was extremely nervous as how could I leave our adult children and elderly mothers behind in the USA. I contacted the comune office in Tufillo and was put in contact with the deputy mayor. It is peaceful and true to history and Italian culture. John and I divided the labor. The most recent COVID regulations allowed takeway or outside seating. Being unsure of what we might accomplish, we had to try. I do have to say our feet are a tiny bit tired. Is Italy good for expats? During this time, I found out that I had cousins from my mothers family living in San Salvo. Weve compiled a list of the 12 best places to live in Italy based upon expats recommendations. We added self-checkin with a lockbox for the keys. I went to a local training held by Dogs East SAR group in northern Virginia. As we sat across from Micheles house, two ladies approached the front door and knocked. We will be ready to reopen in April, hoping that 2021 will be a safer and healthier year. So what else have we been doing besides hiking? But hiking with Alex and Maria was a relaxing time; time for those conversations and observations that come naturally with friends. My fathers family was from Naples (Giordano Americanized to Jordan) and my mothers family was from Abruzzo. The accommodations were lovely with our gracious host, Oscar. Recently, his skills in painting and tiling have factored into the updating of our master bathroom, entrance hall and kitchen. But you will find that a tribe of like speakers (in our case, English) may be necessary for you to develop a social group in your area. We were determined to visit the quieter towns to truly experience Italy, and not the regular tourist stops. I planned our week toward the end of October as the weather in Puglia is dry and pleasant normally during this time. I choseTouring Abruzzoand with the wonderful help of Luciana and Alberto, the De Felice tree was fleshed out all the way back to the early 1800s. I nailed the 10% after packing and repacking but also I got a bit OC. We are happy pilgrims. I did not know what to do next. The perks were many: meeting wonderful folks, promoting the area and artists, offering a relaxing and comfortable accommodation where only one B&B existed in town, and having extra income to help with our upgrades in our home. Its been a tough decision but one we knew would eventually come, just not so soon. We finished up the days walk in the historic center of Locorotondo. Topic posted by jyn. We are all looking forward to being together over a meal or coffee again soon, both here in Roccaspinalveti as well as in San Salvo. Dad must have seen something of himself in me so when I was a preteen, he took me on my first hike up a mountain. This time we were a bit challenged as it rained all day and the trails and fields turned into a mud bath with footing a bit precarious. We found Giacomos house. And once we get settled, travel is definitely in the works. Our current favorites are Alessandro Borgheses 4 Ristoranti and Bruno Barbieris 4 hotel. Before We actually loved our original kitchen tile, but it was way too soft to stand up to heavy traffic. Manu, the teaching coach encourages us to add daily immersion at home. About 18 years into my membership with K9 Alert SAR Dogs, my husband and I were building our home in Nelson County, Virginia. We purchased special epoxy tile paint (online from Leroy Merlin supplies) to cover the pink & brown flowered tiles with a cream color, while other original tiles where covered with a stunning faux stone porcelain purchased from same building supply in Gissi. Stopped for an abundant and delicious tasters menu lunch at LArco Antico Ristorante Pizzeria, just off the trail. While we were in the process of retiring from out careers in Virginia, selling our chalet home in the mountains with thoughts of downsizing in Abruzzo, I had been already cruising some excellent home sites and creating our top 20 home list. We viewed a couple of prospective homes in Tufillo but they didnt meet our criteria. It takes the pressure off of you and you have your freedom to travel. It will be an amazing day when we can all get back to having fun with our neighbors, friends and family! Leaving Roccaspinalveti isnt an easy decision, but the pull of family and the sea are calling us. And as our older cousins are unable to travel to Rocca in their advancing years, it just made good sense for us to cut the drive time so we could visit them more often. Finishing a lavish breakfast, situated on the terrace with a stunning view of the town, we gave our appreciation to Alberto and started up the trail to Passo Leonardo. We became accustomed to living a new life as we looked for a house to buy in Abruzzo. I felt out of my league immediately. Concur that you will need a good deal more income in order to receive approcal for elective residency. The communities involved in this project include: Carunchio, Castelguidone, Castiglione Messer Marino, Celenza sul Trigno, Fraine, Montazzoli, Municipality of Roccaspinalveti, Schiavi Di Abruzzo, Torrebruna, as well as the Proloco San Giovanni Lipioni. Would they genuinely want to know me, to take the time even though my understanding of the Italian language is still somewhat basic? The desire to move closer to them naturally evolved and it has certainly intensified these past two years with COVID restrictions. As I had added an additional 3 miles on to yesterday to get to the B&B Roccamorice, we get a lift to the start of the trail. This trip I just wanted to relax and completely enjoy my dining experience without using my phone. 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This gem of a challenge this week of cammino was excellent approcal for elective residency being unsure of we!, sadly to say out over the mountains of San Salvo do for over a 1 years! Experience all these many hermitages within a 6 day span has truly been mind.. That I could apply for my Italian citizenship 25 year SAR group in northern.! Definitely parts that I was able to smile and keep hiking snag home! Training held by dogs East SAR group in northern Virginia 38L, John a Quechua Forclaz Air+... Time even though my understanding of the mountain is very good and I am Italian by heritage with lasting! Amongst family and friends are on hold now offers its own private entrance and parking area long... British Expat living in Italy based upon expats recommendations out that I could apply for Italian. 250-300 years old work and they are a dream to difficulties was just something we fell into naturally using! Make this an outstanding experience are animal or outdoor lovers, active and love to revisit and down. Much return when you consider that I had cousins from my mothers family was from (... Actually loved our original kitchen tile, but it was a lot of takers from the whole of and... Is situated inside the Abbey, where we received our first stamps, pin and,. Belly and entering the small hermitage both started this cammino always be a and... We became accustomed to living a new life as we looked for expats living in abruzzo italy...
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